Mitre Shears/Mitre Angle Trim/PVC Decking Cutter

Product Information

The angle at which each piece of timber is cut to form the mitre joint is half of the total angle involved. As we have mentioned, most mitres are used to form a 90° turn as most rooms are square, or very nearly in the case of most modern buildings! See the “How to Measure and Mark a Mitre Joint Cut” section above to find out how to accurately measure this. However, a mitre joint can be cut at pretty much any angle, so their not just confined to forming 90° turns. Likewise, if you put your pencil mark to the left or the right of your cutting point, you will need to make your cut to the left or right of the mark. The best route to take is to always measure, mark and cut from the internal point of the joint and not the external.

Despite the above they are still a decent cheap solution and if you’re feeling brave you can even make your own!There’s no real right or wrong method of marking, just make sure you know exactly where you have put your mark in relation to where you need to cut. Even a fraction of a millimetre off and there will be a gap in the joint that will stand out a mile off. Design is the result of continuous refinement over 50 years of production by Dan-List a/s in Denmark. The mitre joint is mainly used as a decorative and light duty timber joint due to the fact that they are not the strongest form of timber joint, so wouldn’t suit anything loadbearing or an item that’s subjected to heavy pulling forces. How is a Mitre Joint Made? The next job is to then position our timber on the flat table of the mitre saw and push it up tight to the fence. You can then use some decorators caulk to fill the gap left in the mitre joint. Use a caulk or skeleton gun to force the caulk into the joint until it is full.

One of the key points to be aware of when cutting mitre joints is which side of the timber the bevel needs to be cut (front facing side or rear side) and whether it’s to form and internal or external mitre joint. Measure up from the floor level to your mark on the door frame and then measure and mark this figure onto your architrave timber, making sure that you mark the correct side. Press the power switch on the handle to start the saw and then use your thumb to press the handle release. This will then allow you to lower the blade down to your timber. Use your spare hand to hold the timber tight against the fence so that it doesn’t move. This point should be measured and marked directly on, in this case, the door frame as we’re putting up architrave or if you’re working on something else, on the frame or external of the item you’re working with (as seen in the image above). Cutting stop and measuring scale system makes it easy to set the length while allowing for the width of the moulding. This speeds accurate repeat working.Mark the centreline of a test piece of the material to be used and set the cutter so that this line comes just below the protruding tongue. Whether you go for a single or double bevel saw will largely be driven by cost. Double bevel saws offer the most versatility, but also come with the highest price tags. Skilled users may be comfortable simply turning the workpiece upside down, but that might be over-complicated for those taking their first steps. Finally, think about where you’re going to use it. Most mitre saws can be mounted to a workbench, but others have their own stand. The choice you make will be governed by how and where you’ll use it.

There’s adjustment for the main fence, plus a clamp which can be mounted on either side to hold your workpiece in place, and a zip-up dust collection bag (though you could also connect a vacuum). Storage for the allen key required to swap blades is a nice touch. Angled bevel laying on mitre saw bed to set correct angle for mitre saw What if my Mitre Joint isn’t that Accurate? As we have mentioned, cutting mitre joints using a hand saw can lead to the joint itself not being a 100% accurate, but this isn’t the end of the world. Read on below for tips on how slightly inaccurate joints can be rectified. You can make more elaborate adjustable fence stops, securing them with threaded rod and pronged teenuts. You will find them useful for many other table routing applications.Cut the test piece in half, reverse one piece and fit them together as a flat joint. You will have one of three results. In the picture, from top to bottom, we have (first two greatly exaggerated): cutter too low; cutter too high; cutter just right. With each position of the fence, make both cuts; flat cut first, followed by vertical cut. Make the final passes very light ones, to give the best possible finish. Purpose-built adjustable fence stops Credit subject to status and affordability. Terms and conditions apply. Axminster Tool Centre Ltd trading as Axminster Tools is a credit broker and is Authorised and Regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Credit is provided by Novuna Personal Finance, a trading style of Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC, authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Financial Services Register no. 704348.

This is an important point to consider as if you mark your pencil line directly on the cutting point, meaning the cutting point is at the centre of your pencil line then you will need to make sure that you cut through the middle of the pencil line.Essentially if you don’t measure accurately and mark the exact position that you cut needs to be made and then indeed make your cut in the correct place then your joint will be sloppy and look poor. The width of the channel that a saw blade creates is known as the “kerf” and how wide this channel is depends on the width of the blade itself, how much the blade moves as it rotates at speed and also the set of the teeth on the blade. Generally speaking, the more the saw can do, the more it will cost, so you need to consider what jobs you’re going to ask of it. You should also consider whether you want a corded or cordless saw – the former usually costs less, but you’ll need to be close to a power supply, while the latter are usually pricier but far more portable, though you’ll need to factor in battery life. Cuts with two very sharp blades which leave the mitre cut faces perfectly smooth and accurate, requiring no further preparation before joining. Key specs – Bevel capacity: 0-45 degrees; Blade size: 210mm; No-load speed: 4,200rpm; Weight: 7.9kg